Our Apt Mental Climb
The study of form within functional Alpine garments was the departure for the OAMC Spring - Summer 2023 collection. Spending vast amounts of time outdoors, in the mountains, by the ocean, the evidence that geometry and beauty within the natural landscape draws a parallel with the functional garments, accessories, and footwear that assist the exploration of these places becomes apparent. From voluminous three-dimensional pockets to sharp, clean shirts and gilets sliced by single diagonal zippers at the collars, the forms are pure, and while they are undoubtedly functional, they offer a strong and unconventional aesthetic point of view. A manipulation of the archetypes of the mountaineering and Alpine wardrobe, but with a modern and practical sensibility.
This season denim is introduced into the OAMC collection. The approach was deeply considered from the raw, strong Japanese fabrics to the workmanship and finishings. The result achieved has a warm, West Coast High Sierra climbing feeling while creating a clouded, uneven dye effect. The forms are strong and generous, and have a distinctly hand-made feeling.
Re:Work is pushed into a more conceptual framework while retaining a functional atmosphere. Alpine flora inspire both the selection of the camouflage motifs as well as the overdyed color palettes. Military garments are again repurposed, dyed, and refinished, both with respect to materials as well as shape. Vintage nylon parachutes are deconstructed, shaped, padded, lined, and overdyed, suggesting a new proposition for working with circular panels and transforming them into garments. Seams are highlighted and left as found: the various people working on these garments at different moments in separate physical locations symbolize a beautiful unity and collaborative effort that seems so lacking in the present world.
The fabrics in this collection are deeply developed and researched. From coated cotton poplins to strong robust wools in both solid color and mouliné, important advances have also been made in the dye and denim techniques. This season again shows the depth of the artisanal approach with overdye and surface effects applied by hand. Also present are strong singular floral print motifs on fluid viscose/silk shirtings, as well as fully printed garments in crisp cotton, silk, and recycled nylon reminiscent of acid colored marbles. Colors travel from crisp optical whites, creams, and eggshell yellows, to natural hues such as sand, beige, lilac, and pale green, to strong and deep blacks and grey.
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